Victoria Chinatown
The Oldest (and smallest) Chinatown in Canada
30.06.2016 - 30.06.2016
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North by Northwest
on pscotterly's travel map.
Discovery Tours has several walking tours of Victoria. The walk through Victoria Chinatown was my third. I recommend their tours.
Although it is the oldest Chinatown in Canada and, at one time, the largest, today it is only about one block.
Amid the traditional Dim Sum restaurants and tourist junk shops,
you will find traditional grocers and medicines.
There is also the Yen Wo Society temple. Visitors are welcome. If you are on the walking tour, you will get instructions on how to make a request and offerings to each of the altars.
In the past, Victoria's Chinatown was much larger. Their history here is similar to that of Washington, Oregon, and San Francisco area. It all started with the famine and political turmoil in China mid 19th Century.
As I have logged previously, the Chinese were basically used as slave labor in the mines and on the railroad throughout North America after they coming looking for gold and found little was to be discovered. Mr. Dunsmore, was one of the businessmen the unions could not break. When the European miners tried to strike for better wages and conditions, he imported Chinese laborers. Now you can understand how he could afford to build a castle!
For a time, the biggest industry in Victoria Chinatown was the import and export of opium. It is worthwhile to remember that opium was only used medicinally in China until the English realized it was a way they could control the China trade and began importing it from India into China. Hence the Opium Wars. Chinese opium was imported to North America where it was used in more patent medicines to soothe hysterical middle/upper class American women than it was in the Chinese opium dens where the slave labor reclined.
(Well, my definition is a bit naive and limited.)
But that does not dispute that the current Fan Tan alley with all it's shops was once filled with vice, opium dens, and warehouses.
Many impoverished Chinese came to North American with the dream of returning home in silk clothing. Lee Mong Kow was one of these immigrants who came with this dream. Over the years he sent money home, brought family to Victoria,
and helped to develop the vibrant Victoria Chinatown -
including this school in 1905 that still functions as a Chinese school. At the time, Chinese youth were not allowed to attend Victoria public schools. Now it serves as a community school for youth and adults teaching language, culture, and arts.
One hundred years later in 2005, Victoria realized that with all the tourists and cruise ships they could make some money in Chinatown. A massive renovation and preservation project was undertaken.
Although much of the area is historical and many businesses are "true Chinatown," there is controversial gentrification in businesses,restaurants, and condominiums.
I enjoyed my walking tour through Chinatown. The tour company co-owner knows a young boy whose mother owns a shop and he goes along on many of the tours when he is not studying or working with his mother. As I was the only one the tour this day, I felt as if I were walking with a couple of good friends and forgot to leave them tips. I had to take the bus back to Victoria the next week and hang around on the benches waiting for them to appear so I could give a tip and thank them!
Posted by pscotterly 21:06 Archived in Canada Tagged vancouver_island